The smoky pancetta works so well with the cabbage, fish and yeasty beer but, even though the flavours are intense, the dish isn’t heavy at all.
Mix the cream with the horseradish and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Heat a large heavy-based pot over medium heat. Add half the oil and the pancetta and fry for 2 minutes or until crisp. Add the fennel and caraway seeds, the shallots and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Add the cabbage and stir it in, then cook for 10 minutes.
Season the fish and cut each fillet into 2 pieces widthways. In a fry pan over high heat, seal the fish skin side down for 3 minutes, then remove from the pan.
Place the fish on top of the cabbage and pour the beer over it. Add the butter, sprinkle the herbs over and place the lid on the pot. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes to cook the fish through.
Scatter the fish with extra dill, squeeze over the lemon, and spoon a little horseradish cream on each fish fillet. Take the pot to the table to serve.